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Author Topic: Axe blade sharpening medium?  (Read 808 times)
MR GUS
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« on: July 05, 2017, 06:02:22 PM »

(I learnt something)

short: I bought a nice new chopping axe (Hultafors) from a guy on ebay delivered for 32.00 brand new linky if you need one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hultafors-Chopping-Axe-1750g-/162572329540?

He's a new seller, others are packing for him, my chopper was clearly dropped & suffered some damage, which i'll polish out with some baby oil (perfumed mineral oil) ...sadly from the petro chemical industry bi-product range. ..but as a result my Hultafors cost me 16.25 & I need the ractise with my Lansky stone (I normally use my  dremel).

What is a "nicer / ecologically sound alternative" to the purposely bland description of "mineral oil"!? ..I recently paid through the nose for some "Catskill" EXPENSIVE STUFF (227ml for around 8.00) ..which I thought i'd use for a 19th c pine table, not knowing "mineral oil" was petro chemical related ...well its the word "mineral" innit!?  facepalm ralph ..somehow I feel duped having read the wiki page for mineral oil, ...a big brand like Johnsons works out way cheaper, if you can live with the perfume.

Subsequently for the table ive ordered (locally produced) Cambridge traditional beeswax (with pine tree turpentine) ..which still has "questionable properties" ..but not half so much (I feel) as the questionable carcinogenic "mineral oil" which you are encouraged to use for wooden implements, salad bowls, butchers blocks etc..

Whilst I will use up (rather than pour away) left over & hardly used johnsons baby oil from when the kid was a baby, what is a better vehicle & more ecologically for blade maintainance?

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Bodidly
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« Reply #1 on: July 05, 2017, 07:15:27 PM »

Baby oil for sharpening  Shocked  What a pampered axe

My Fiskers gets brush with a file and then it's ready to go  Tongue
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MR GUS
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« Reply #2 on: July 05, 2017, 08:36:32 PM »

Nah, i'm just not willing to pour it down the sink / landfill etc, so its nice to see it get some use after 13 years of sitting on a shelf.  Grin ...& you (I) feel a horses arse having found out what the overpriced stuff really is, apparantly nowadays j&j are also using a palm oil ("cheapener") ..but tesco baby oil (fragrance free) is a nice thin one for the job.

treat yourself  Grin

I'll try the lansky with water first & see how that does (compared to my cheapy stones) just in case.
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MR GUS
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« Reply #3 on: July 11, 2017, 05:55:41 PM »

The Lansky does ok with water, but not the best lifting agent, ..the old baby oil was an improvement, & afterwards I felt somewhat like curly from "of mice & men"
got plenty in need of sharpening to hone my technique though, nicer than the cigar stones.
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martin W
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« Reply #4 on: July 11, 2017, 06:28:20 PM »

linseed oil for the wooden table, not sure if it will be any good for the axe sharpening as it's a 'drying' oil. it might leave a scum on your sharpening stone....
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Philip R
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« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2017, 08:03:38 PM »

Never use linseed oil on an oilstone. As Martin W has said, only for outside wooden furniture.  Learnt that in the 1970s during proper woodwork lessons at school. ( when we could use chisels and mallets  and make real dovetail joint and coffee tables out of mahogany. ( And use a lathe) HASAWA existed thern . just but not in Nanny state form as it does today.

The oil usde on the rotary turntable  chisel and plane iron sharpening stone used a grade of mineral oil. (Unfortunately I did not embarass myself this particular time in class by asking my woodwork teacher what make and grade of oil was used.)

Years ago, apparantly, sperm whale oil was used. But that was deamed not politically correct, so used good old mineral oil, it was cheaper too.

My father taught me to sharpen chisels using an oilstone . I have a full set of oilstones that my grandfather aquired from the USAAF surplus sold off at the end of WW2. I use 3 in 1 oil like my forefathers did, works a treat. Use it to sharpen the Kitchen knife set. Get a lovely sharp edge on my my grandmas old Firth Brown sheer steel ( high carbon non stainless) carving knife.

After sharpening completed, wipe stone clean with a piece of kitchen tissue, to dry and clean the stone surface, and throw away. or use to light a fire to avoid oily contamination of landfill.
Philip R
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djh
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« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2017, 09:07:02 PM »

"I use 3 in 1 oil like my forefathers did"

Yes, ditto.
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biff
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« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2017, 10:40:30 PM »

A greasy fine grinder disc on the angle grinder.
                      Works for me, Just very light touches. Cures the blunt blade on the rotary lawn mower blade as well,
I use that black Graphite grease , horrible smell though whistlie. You just kiss the metal with the disc,Don,t let it heat up.
By the way, The motorised chain saw chain sharpener from Aldi,s is a cracking bit of gear. Takes a while to get the hang of it but it leaves a great job with no guess work.
                                         Biff
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AndrewE
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« Reply #8 on: July 12, 2017, 10:48:42 AM »

"I use 3 in 1 oil like my forefathers did"

Yes, ditto.
I like 3-in-1 for some things, but I use transformer oil on my sharpening stone.
3-in-1 is what it says, oil plus a solvent plus a gum for rust prevention.  I don't want my stone clogged by the gum: if you want to see some of it, try putting a bit of the aerosol version into an open bottle and see the lump of crud that grows!
A
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MR GUS
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« Reply #9 on: July 12, 2017, 11:42:47 AM »

This stuff?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transformer_oil ..thanks i'll read up if so.

3 in one is popular as it is freely available, but clogging the stone is a factor as mentioned.
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Austroflamm stove & lot's of Lowe alpine fleeces, A "finger" of Solar Sad
Noli Timere Messorem
Screw FITS ..it is, & always has been about the environment (said the penny-pinching Scotsman)
AndrewE
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« Reply #10 on: July 12, 2017, 12:42:48 PM »

That's the stuff.  I got mine as surplus samples from a testing lab, I guess if you spoke to an electricity distribution worker you might be able to cadge the leavings in a drum...

Alternatively a thin Plain Mineral Oil would do, but when I tried to find some for another use I got the strangest web search results!
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Philip R
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« Reply #11 on: July 12, 2017, 02:07:52 PM »

Thanks for the info on gum residuum from 3 in 1 oil. Gum forms if left to dry, hence wiping clean the stone afterwards.
Regarding transformer oil. Back in past ESI employment. It was known that many transformers got contaminated by the use of PCB contaminated transformer oil, parts per million concentrations,. Technology was developped to clean the oil, but PCB would continue to leach out the insulation after cleaning. So if using. Just don't get it on your skin, as the oil alone is nasty stuff.

Philip R
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AndrewE
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« Reply #12 on: July 12, 2017, 06:22:43 PM »

Good point. I was lucky to be in an industry that specified virgin oil and didn't use PCBs (except in a very few special locations and which came in in some capacitors... that cost a lot to clean up after they had leaked!)  All the tests that were done to check gave us effectively zero contamination.

Re cleaning a sharpening stone afterwards, I think I remember being taught at school that the main purpose of the oil is to keep the grindings off the stone, so wiping it clean during and after a session is essential.

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