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Author Topic: Insulated Box Profile. Any horror stories?  (Read 566 times)
charlieb
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« on: September 05, 2017, 03:41:00 PM »

We're getting new roof cladding on an old stone and timber farm building.  Replacing part-rotten fibre cement roofing, and probably replacing about 1/4 of the timbers.

Basic choice is box profile sheeting with the condensation felt underneath, straight onto the timbers. Replacing the fibre cement like for like.   I had a brief conversation with the builder about box profile with added insulation.  It would more or less double the material cost.  Has anyone got experience of it, good or bad?   Or thoughts on whether it will be easier / cheaper to fit insulation afterwards?

I'm not sure what we'll use the building for - repair now is partly to stop any further disintegration.  But there are possibilites to use it as workshop space, in which case insulation would be useful. That said, I'd imagined people fitting out their own workshops, including roof lights, etc, so insulation might just end up getting in the way or being added to inneffectually.

Thanks




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Iain
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« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2017, 04:16:13 PM »

Hi
I had a plain metal roof on my garage for years and tried insulating it to stop the condensation . Never very successful . Changed it for the pre insulated stuff and I have had no issues since. Wish I had done it the first time.

There is a foam strip to seal the 2 adjacent sheets, just make sure the sheets sit properly to allow the foam to actually seal and do its job.

Iain
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Bodidly
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« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2017, 04:36:32 PM »

I did my workshop with regular box profile and then added Celotex underneath between the purlins. It works fine but if I was paying for labour sure it would have been cheaper to use the pre insulated profile as faffing around fitting insulation between the purlins was slow going. Not to mention the lack of thermal bridging with pre insulated.
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Fionn
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« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2017, 04:47:52 PM »

The other obvious solution is to fix PIR sheets on top of the purlins, fixed with battens and then put a membrane on top and use regular sheeting. Should be fairly efficient in terms of labour as the fitting will be from the top.
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knighty
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« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2017, 04:52:56 PM »

no experience with pre-insulated stuff


how bad is the old roof ?  a friend of mine ran some galvanised box section steel on top of his roof (in opposite direction to water flow), put kingspan between them, then normal metal roof sheets on top.... worked really well, lot less mess and must cheaper too

it was a massive roof he did, looks really nice, he painted the roof inside the building to brighten it up a bit, that made a big difference too

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gravyminer
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« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2017, 06:33:55 PM »

If you are talking about composite panels like the Kingspan range -

http://www.kingspanpanels.co.uk/panels/products/insulated-roof-panels/

If put on correctly the composites do not leak.
This is pretty much what goes onto every non farm steel framed building nowadays.
We used to do a liner sheet then another purlin with rock wool rolled out between the spacer purlins, then the top roof sheet but any wind and your insulation is all over the place .... 

Even farmers will sometimes opt for composites but they generally seem to prefer the relatively cheap fibre cement compromise thats relatively quiet when its raining and doesn't drip quite so much as single skin metal.
The felt under option might work but I've seen plenty thats drooped and not much use and its very dark / gloomy.

How about a thermafleece breathable membrane ? its white on one side ....

https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/thermafleece-breather-membrane-100gsm-167m-x-15m-roll.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuNG6xsmO1gIV7rDtCh3aWg6OEAQYAyABEgKmsPD_BwE



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biff
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« Reply #6 on: September 05, 2017, 08:55:41 PM »

If you can afford the insulated box profile,
                                            Then don,t waste your time with the single box profile. I used the single box profile on my shed because the roof pitch was 45%, same as house. The guy who did the steel and roof said it was his first 45% roof and it would also be his last. The single sheet was about as much as he and his men could handle. He said he would not even consider giving me a price for the the insulated box profile. Grin. I have little or no problems with drips. A friend has massive big warehouses and he swears by the insulated box profile.
                                                                                             Biff
   
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marshman
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« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2017, 09:22:37 PM »

I've got two garages, both steel framed and clad in box profile. The roof sheets have the "anti-condensation" material on the back. This" does what it says on the tin". Absorbs the condensation which slowly dries during the day. The only bits that are a problem are the steel roof beams that do drip a bit. I have since added some 30mm Kingspan Therma?? (30mm PIR foil covered) from Seconds and Co. Wasn't too bad a job retro fitting between the beams. Definitely worth it, makes it nice and cosy in the winter to working and also stops it getting too hot in the summer. The sheets I had were 4m long, 1m wide. Easy enough to handle on my own. They've been up 10 years now and no sign of any deterioration/rust and I live on the coast.

So no horror stories from me. (Oh sorry, they are a bit noisy when it rains!)

Roger
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Tinbum
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« Reply #8 on: September 06, 2017, 01:01:27 AM »

My workshop used to be really bad with the condensation freezing on the underside of the steel box section and then melting and running down to the perlins and then dropping off. I'd like to re sheet it all with insulated box section and the walls. I've insulated some of the walls with polystyrene insulation but what a pain.

In the mean time, the solar panels have reduced the problem significantly. Cheesy

My barn with asbestos cement walls and roof has no such problems but i am due to replace that soon as i'm fitting more PV and dont want to fix it to and old heavy roof.
« Last Edit: September 06, 2017, 01:03:23 AM by Tinbum » Logged

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charlieb
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« Reply #9 on: September 06, 2017, 03:18:13 PM »

Thanks all.  There seems to be a pretty strong consensus to go with the insulated box profile.  Nothing ever comes cheap! But I'm sure I'll be pleased I did it with hindsight.

The current fibre cement is the asbestos stuff, so it definitely needs replaced. Several tonnes of skip removal costs there I think too.
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Tinbum
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« Reply #10 on: September 06, 2017, 03:25:36 PM »


The current fibre cement is the asbestos stuff, so it definitely needs replaced. Several tonnes of skip removal costs there I think too.

About a year ago I got rid of a load- about 5.5 tonnes, came to about 1100 ish. I was actually more worried about opening the sealed skip, as it had just been used at Drax, than putting my stuff in it. (all on pallets).
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charlieb
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« Reply #11 on: September 07, 2017, 03:08:11 PM »

Yep, I've been quoted 540 for the skip hire and then 195 for each tonne.
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Tinbum
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« Reply #12 on: September 07, 2017, 03:23:27 PM »

I had 80 delivery, 150 per lift (but that was reduced by half as I'm about 5 miles from the tip and they originally told me it was going to Huddersfield) and then 148 per tonne. It all went in the one skip. Oh and I had to get  a license (about 21) which you now don't need.
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