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Author Topic: lime pointing and shutters  (Read 1864 times)
eabadger
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« Reply #15 on: October 08, 2017, 07:58:30 AM »

biff  freeze does that mean you think it is cold? our house far from it, big thick walls have worked really well, never cold no jumpers on inside, all visitors comment how warm it is.

anyway rained overnight but set dry rest of day so crack on.


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biff
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« Reply #16 on: October 08, 2017, 08:24:15 PM »

No Not at all Steve,
                         It is just that I like a bit of cement in the mix, surrender
                                                  Biff
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todthedog
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« Reply #17 on: October 09, 2017, 06:38:01 AM »

 hysteria hysteria hysteria
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eabadger
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« Reply #18 on: October 09, 2017, 08:41:53 AM »

a retired builder out here came for sunday lunch about 4 years ago, he sucked through his teeth and said he preferred a bit of cement in the mix, but he admitted ours looked nicer.
roll on a year we popped round and he was standing back admiring his newly self built garden wall, big old thing looked lovely, no cement in site, he was well chuffed so much so never gone back to the grey stuff.

everyone to there own, am interested biff why you think the lime needs the touch? have you tried NHL? nothing like lime putty, it goes off overnight and fully hardens soon after.
no mess no waste all can go back in the next days mix, mix left overnight is in fact a better mix.

steve
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todthedog
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« Reply #19 on: October 09, 2017, 03:01:20 PM »

Do you ever add plasticiser Steve?


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eabadger
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« Reply #20 on: October 09, 2017, 03:42:28 PM »

never used it, lafarge actually say their lime can be used as a plastisier, i find a long mix followed by a long rest is all that is needed, overnight best, but a few hours suffices.

as i said all a personal opinion, but i personally like the sand colour without grey, i did try white cement but in the end opted for natural!
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1600w PV main array at 24v, excide 2v 1000a forklift cells now x 2, 320w PV secondary array at 12v. Enfield 1944 ex RAF 5.6kw diesel genset (now in pieces, big ends gone), Petter AC1 28v diesel charging set at 2.8kw.
1kw wind turbine.
26kw wood stove back boiler to underfloor heating and dhw
biff
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« Reply #21 on: October 09, 2017, 03:48:17 PM »

Hi Steve,
     I would probably be like that retired builder friend of yours, but I am not sure. I built a lot of brickwork/blockwork where lime was not allowed and a plasterciser was measured in a little plastic cup.
 Builders like to err on what we think is the safe side. Grin
                                                            Biff
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todthedog
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« Reply #22 on: October 09, 2017, 04:33:20 PM »

I found pure lime plus a little plasticiser made it stick better about a teaspoon per load. No cement.
Each to his own, not a job I much enjoyed genuflect
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eabadger
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« Reply #23 on: October 09, 2017, 05:03:01 PM »

biff exactly what freddie said, he then tested without letting on!
the daub on and brush off is so simple for the enthusiastic diyyer.

td i am knackered every night, but the finished look makes me keen for next day, sort of.
i found damping down wall first makes it stick fine, point first allow to dry a bit then render over all.

shutters going in tomorrow weather permitting, due to being secondhand the top box is bigger than i would like but i plan to cover with a oak plank removed from the soon to be removed barn at the side, which will allow me to get rid of the galv piece and attaching bars, how i get the massive a frames down is a task, any ideas?


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1600w PV main array at 24v, excide 2v 1000a forklift cells now x 2, 320w PV secondary array at 12v. Enfield 1944 ex RAF 5.6kw diesel genset (now in pieces, big ends gone), Petter AC1 28v diesel charging set at 2.8kw.
1kw wind turbine.
26kw wood stove back boiler to underfloor heating and dhw
biff
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« Reply #24 on: October 09, 2017, 06:20:25 PM »

A handy forklift,
                 Spread the tines and wrap old sacking around them,tie them well, I think the tines go wide to 4ft, so you have quite an overlap on both sides. If you can get the frame to rest on the tines, you can then tie them firmly. It is a good idea to plank underneath the forklift for the first few feet to clear the wall and lower the frame. Forklift can be gentle. I know you have a digger but the controls on those small diggers are rather jerky, especially on the extended jib. You were probably thinking of a forklift anyhow.
                                                                           Biff
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eabadger
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« Reply #25 on: October 10, 2017, 11:27:39 AM »

hello Biff,
thanks for that, i was thinking about a manitou type thing, tellihandler? these things are massive i will get some picture later, i was hoping you would have some way using rope and pulleys as loaning/renting things here massively expensive.
as for digger i think these will be past its usability.
unbelievably we are having planning issues, we have pp for a single storey flat roof extension but now decided to rebuild barn with block built walls clad in original oak planks and new slate roof, but new rules mean total sqm over 150m needs an architect at 4000!! just for a drawing of what we already have.

steve
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1kw wind turbine.
26kw wood stove back boiler to underfloor heating and dhw
biff
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« Reply #26 on: October 10, 2017, 12:22:30 PM »

Hi Steve,
           You could put up a scaffold along side frame and support the underside of the frame on wooden 2" x 2" x 2ft long. The important thing is to prise the frame away from the stonework/brickwork so that it rests on the 2" x2"s  level so that it can clear the bolts and not drop on one end, kicking the stone work out into the street.  Without having a clear pic of the said frame, i am only guessing but I know that it needs to be fully supported on the level to clear the bolts. It it is going to be used again then you will have to lower it gently, If it is going to be scrap and you could get your digger to one end of it and lift it clear of the scaffold with a short rope,, then remove that scaffold section and lower that end to the ground. It is the kind of job that you need to keep other people well clear off. You need to remember to tie the Frame to the inside of the scaffold crosspiece to create a hinge as you lower it. This will prevent the lot skidding away and wrecking the scaffold before you can get around to take the weight of the other side and remove that box.
  This is all very clear to me facepalm but I have been known to indulge in seemingly mumbo jumbo.
I do know that a simple job such as lower a heavy frame like that can turn out not to be so simple after all and take a good half day.
 I was thinking that maybe this frame is also a structural support.! with a big steel girder bolted on to the back of it, You really don,t know what you will find with these old building until you get up close and personal with it.
 Sorry to hear about your additional bill..That is a rather sore nip,,surely they have made a mistake of sorts.
                                                                               Biff
       
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eabadger
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« Reply #27 on: October 10, 2017, 12:49:41 PM »

in for a cuppa, will digest later.
but three of these one up against gable end, ridge beam is lodged in the gable end arrow slot so keen to get that out and some glass in! currently covered up insulated and plastered over in my bedroom.
all oak and chestnut from the forest 2m behind that rear wall.

wife going to planing department in morning to argue the eco case, they like that, our solar shed and pv arrays were nodded through, the barn replacement will have the CHP unit and big wood and oil combined boiler in it, with rain water harvesting etc.
plus a garage and workshop for me!!


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« Last Edit: October 10, 2017, 12:53:42 PM by eabadger » Logged

1600w PV main array at 24v, excide 2v 1000a forklift cells now x 2, 320w PV secondary array at 12v. Enfield 1944 ex RAF 5.6kw diesel genset (now in pieces, big ends gone), Petter AC1 28v diesel charging set at 2.8kw.
1kw wind turbine.
26kw wood stove back boiler to underfloor heating and dhw
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