fake lead

[charlieb]

Sorry folks, nothing sustainable in this question at all. has anyone got experience of using lead replacement products? it's for an old farmhouse that needs copeys repainted and leaded. it's come up because the wall and chimney are getting completely reharled and we realised there s water getting in under the copeys. The fake lead product would be at least 500 quid cheaper. Any reason not to make the saving..?
the product is ' Easy Lead Self Adhesive Smooth Lead Alternative - 600mm x 5m Roll
brand  easy trim'
Thanks for any thoughts. Charlie

[camillitech]

Morning Charlie,

I used a little of it around 1990 on the old house when I was repairing the tin roof. Did a small area around one chimney myself. A friend did the other chimney with lead and it looked much better (but only cos he was an expert). Twenty seven years on the flashing I did is still water tight and so is the lead. I have used it more as a sound deadening medium on cars and Land Rovers though and for that it really does take some beating, sticks like 5h1t3 and is very easy to mould around transmission tunnels and bulkheads.

Good luck, Paul

[linesrg]

Good Morning All,

OK I'll ask the question. What are copeys as Google doesn't give me a clue?

Regards

Richard

[camillitech]

Good Morning All,

OK I'll ask the question. What are copeys as Google doesn't give me a clue?

Regards

Richard

They will be the skoos on the gables I guess, perhaps derived from coping stones ? Just guessing.

[biff]

 Years ago,
          I used to use a lead replacement called "Flashband", especially on roofs where the thieves visited regularly. Like Paul,s gear, It stuck like "Flashband". I could never say a bad word about it. It pulled me out of quite a few jams, especially where lead valleys has been holed and repairs with replacement lead would cost and absolute fortune,
  "Copeys" I honestly am not sure. Like Paul says, possible slang for coping stones, which sit on top of parapets and more than often conceal the first steps on flashing lead onto a roof.
  I always kept a roll of Flashband about me. The first few rolls that I ever bought were a fiver each. Miracle stuff.
                                                          Biff

[linesrg]

camillitech,

I should have guessed? I know them as 'skews', I'll need to ask our slater the next time I see him...............

Regards

Richard

[Warble]

Leaking skews are a common problem in old buildings because the pointing eventually cracks and water gets in behind.

Flashband is ok for short term repairs but it will eventually separate and peel if exposed to the sun.
The permanent solution is real lead.

[charlieb]

Correct Paul and Biff. Full marks.  (tbh i may have made it up.) 
We went for the more expensive old building render and on the same logic I'm inclined to go for the real lead. hmmm. certainly we don't want to have to go back up there any time soon. (And I don5 think lead  thieves a problem here.) Thanks all. C

[heatherhopper]

I can also vouch for the credentials of Flashband. Used it extensively as flashing on several outbuildings - some is now getting on for seven years old and no issues. Overpainted with bitumen paint from the start as bolt and braces as practicality rather than looks was the intention. If you are a neat and tidy type (which I am not) the Flashband itself can be indistinguishable from lead from a distance once it has weathered a bit. Sticks to all surfaces like the proverbial although porous surfaces should really have a primer first. I have only seen it separate where not properly adhered and the wind has found an edge. For the price I would be very happy with ten years service.
Agree that lead would be a more permanent solution but in my experience there is no such thing as "permanent" when it comes to roofing and you can end up peeling it all off as a result of some other failure long before it's life is up. Rather like slate, hardwood windows etc etc - aesthetics is usually the main driver.

[offthegridandy]

I'll agree with all above that the product (Flashband ) works.  I've worked with both it and lead and had no problems.  If you've little or no experience  with lead work then you may be better with the flashband.  Its probably easier to get a job that looks OK with the Flashband.  You can slip a piece up behind if you cut it wrong and still get a seal.  With lead if you fish it up you should solder it, which is a whole new ball game.

And if the surface is loose or dusty prime it first and then the band really sticks.  Last job I did was making a seal where the exhaust from the Lister genny exited the corrugated tin roof.  Couldn't have done it lead myself but the flash made it possible for the amateur.