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Author Topic: Inverter smoke  (Read 2780 times)
Nickel2
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« on: November 17, 2017, 10:08:23 PM »

Due to over-exuberance and lack of experience, I have managed to release the smoke from my Strling 300W pure sine inverter. fume
 Is there any way of getting it back in, or do I need a new one? I think probably a 600W or 1000W thing this time, might last a bit longer!
Ideas or recommendations welcome!
 Currently looking at a "Mercury" type 653.103UK for £60 + p&p. It appears to be a generic truckers' sort of thing, can't find any bad reports.
N2
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1.140kW mono south-facing at 49*
EpEver 4210A at 24v
24V 400 Ah battery. (4x200Ah FLA)
EpEver STI1000-24-230 pure sine inverter
Of course it'll work. (It hasn't caught fire yet).
Antman
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« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2017, 08:19:49 AM »

N2
For £60 it's not worth the time or risk trying to repair it. Assuming you have killed the MOSFETS, they may be costly (if you can identify them). You may hit all the failed components in one go - but then you may miss one obscure part (an o/c zener diode is a common one to miss and difficult to test properly at home) that simply creates a new  fume of smoke...
Antman
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20 x 47mm, 172 l cylinder, Heat Dump, 15 x Sanyo HIT-H250E, SB4000TL,  Nestor Martin IQ13 WBS
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biff
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« Reply #2 on: November 19, 2017, 12:08:00 PM »

Once and inverter takes to smoking,
                        It is virtually impossible to get them to give it up. They can go through the winter without a puff but the moment March steps in,,
The sun shines brighter,,the wind blows steady and strong and the foolish inverter can go back to smoking.. They can have so many issues or excuses..
 Almost human they are, facepalm. It is simply not worth the risk.
                        Biff
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Nickel2
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« Reply #3 on: December 28, 2017, 04:39:29 PM »

After a rush of blood to the head, I went and ordered a new more powerful smoke container from a company in the Czech Republic. It is an EpEver STI1000-24-230 pure sine industrial catering pack. It has bigger numbers printed on the outside and the case looks thicker, so it should retain the smoke for longer. It's a nice colour as well, although the photo does it no justice.
Finished fitting and wiring just in time for sunset. Hopefully the sun will rise again tomorrow to top up the overnight draw. The manual says it takes 10W idle-current, but there is a power-save function that shuts it down to 3W when demand is under 20W. Hopefull this one will go the distance!  fingers crossed!



(Mods: please remove if found in competition; I've had a thorough look at our host's online shop, and could not see an equivalent item.)

N2
« Last Edit: December 28, 2017, 05:04:38 PM by Nickel2 » Logged

1.140kW mono south-facing at 49*
EpEver 4210A at 24v
24V 400 Ah battery. (4x200Ah FLA)
EpEver STI1000-24-230 pure sine inverter
Of course it'll work. (It hasn't caught fire yet).
biff
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« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2017, 05:03:25 PM »

Good post N2,
            Good luck with your new smoke container, fingers crossed!
                                       Biff
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Scruff
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« Reply #5 on: December 28, 2017, 08:07:56 PM »

Pewter Power Products have a tendency to do that. Low build quality.
EP are ok, far superior to it's predecessor.
Ep make stuff Victron paint blue and claim as their own.

Nice find, hard to get decent low frequency inverters these days.
You can neutralise it no drama.

Needs a 100A input fuse and a 6A output RCBO with an accompaning electrode or bond it to the installation PE bus.

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Tiff
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« Reply #6 on: December 28, 2017, 09:41:56 PM »


N2, I don't want to cause any embrassement, but would you mind sharing the means by which the smoke was allowed to escape?
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Nickel2
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« Reply #7 on: December 28, 2017, 09:46:45 PM »

Scruff - I've got a 100A fuse lifted from a UPS battery bolted in the +ve line at the battery terminals. The read-after-installation-book says:
'A fuse or breaker should be used between battery and inverter, the value of fuse or switch should be twice of the inverter rated input current'. It doesn't specify the rated input current.  Huh
Well, I thought maybe 25V at 40A = 1kW, so double it and add a bit. The thing is supposed to be able to handle start-loads for durations written in aforesaid book of quite a few W for short periods. Tongue
I was considering one of those anl fuses from fleebuy, but the name put me off slightly. Is it worth considering fitting? The last st*rl*ng unit had the specified correct fuse and it stayed intact, the internal fuse also stayed intact. The MOSFETs proved up to the job of both fuses and duly exploded.
The unit has an Earth stud provided, but I have left the whole lot floating at present, as there's only me that plays with it. You may have read the manual before me and have a better idea, any useful comments appreciated Smiley
I'm hoping this thing will not be too noisy, as I'm a nighttime HF SWL. I've got my fleabay-eye on a SF4110-10/01 mains transient filter for the output before it leaves the wshop and dives underground to the house. Next thing is to do a check on the MPPT and see how much carp needs filtering out at the combiner. (hence the individual panel input leads)
« Last Edit: December 28, 2017, 09:59:44 PM by Nickel2 » Logged

1.140kW mono south-facing at 49*
EpEver 4210A at 24v
24V 400 Ah battery. (4x200Ah FLA)
EpEver STI1000-24-230 pure sine inverter
Of course it'll work. (It hasn't caught fire yet).
Nickel2
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« Reply #8 on: December 28, 2017, 09:56:35 PM »

Hi Tiff, the inverter was a 300W 'pure sine' thing, only designed for intermittent use on boats, lorries etc. I had it powered all day, 24hrs for over a month. It was bought as a customer-return, good-as-new item from flea-buy.
I sometimes noticed a slight 'zizzing' noise when it was on; post-smokum examination showed darkening of the hot-melt used to secure the HV caps where it crossed the HV sense tracks. Peering at it through the glass eye showed break-down of the adhesive, that I suspect led to catastrophic failure of 1+ FETs and the release of said smoke. New FETs probably cost more than the unit, so it's a parts-bin item until I scrap it.
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1.140kW mono south-facing at 49*
EpEver 4210A at 24v
24V 400 Ah battery. (4x200Ah FLA)
EpEver STI1000-24-230 pure sine inverter
Of course it'll work. (It hasn't caught fire yet).
Scruff
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« Reply #9 on: December 28, 2017, 10:40:32 PM »

Marine work their gear a lot harder than domestic, that's not an excuse.

FETs are good like that, they usually save the fuse. Unless they fail closed then it gets exciting...

I'm convinced Sterling buy rights to other manufacturer's products then have them built down. ProMariner have a longer warranty and a better rep. Yet their stuff comes in the same casing and different colours.

There's a steady stream of ham-fisted reconditioned unit aftersales here. Complete with 1 week warranties (ahem..check yer consumer rights...)[Edit..ah 6 months lately...well I got the week special a while back (and claimed partial refund because they soldered the shunt in the repair and the ammeter was out of cal)...not that it mattered I only used the product twice before deciding it couldn't cut mustard]

2kVA @ 24V @ 80% efficiency = 105A. 20% Overhead = 120A fuse.
Fuses are not refined things a 120A will probably hold 150A for 10 secs don't worry too much about surge.

I prefer a Master Fuse and an Inverter Fuse. That way when I'm working downstream the inverter I still have extra low voltage power and lighting.
If you don't like plasma + big sparks then a DC switch-disconnect inverter isolator is recommended too.

Floating means double fail to danger but single fails aren't flagged.

I'd tie the Neutral to the Earth at the inverter out then tie the inverter PE stud to the house bonding with 16mm≤ to the electrode/PE bond.
30mA 6A RCBO downstream inverter. Then verify the fault current.
« Last Edit: December 28, 2017, 11:29:28 PM by Scruff » Logged
Scruff
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« Reply #10 on: December 28, 2017, 10:42:38 PM »

Besides if the inverter takes out the battery master fuse your solar charge controller will join yer deceased inverter in a cloud of vampiric sunlight induced smoke.
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Nickel2
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« Reply #11 on: December 29, 2017, 10:58:41 AM »

At the moment there is no battery master fuse.
The MPPT connection is fed to the battery via the recommended fuse of 40A.
The Inverter connection comes from the battery via a separate 100A fuse.


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1.140kW mono south-facing at 49*
EpEver 4210A at 24v
24V 400 Ah battery. (4x200Ah FLA)
EpEver STI1000-24-230 pure sine inverter
Of course it'll work. (It hasn't caught fire yet).
Scruff
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« Reply #12 on: January 03, 2018, 02:12:19 PM »

To each his own. I find it cheaper, more efficient and neater to have only one cable (excluding sense wires) going to the battery.
If the solar controller and inverter feeders lived on the same bus you'd have a shorter run to load, a larger conductor to battery charging and a tidier battery compartment.

Blue Sea make a neat little Battery Main Distribution unit for just this porpoise called a Safety Hub 150.

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fourfootfarm
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« Reply #13 on: January 06, 2018, 06:38:42 PM »

He flogs refurbed or open box ones on eblag for a song most of the time. We've got a little 250w one running some lighting that is a trooper
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Outback FM60. EPsolar 30a MPPT and a bunch of Tristar 45's. Hodge Podge of solar ~ 4500w. Various generators and 1000ah 24v forklift battery.

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