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Author Topic: How to test failed generator alternator  (Read 4813 times)
Mike McMillan
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« on: December 14, 2017, 08:22:50 AM »

I am now on generator number 7..they hate me and I hate them. This is an almost new Hyundai 6 kw, 350 hours and of course just out of guarantee. It is the time of year where i just do not get quite enough sun to keep the systems going and with Christmas looming really need to have it up and running ( I do have a back up, but.....)

Hyundai try to help over the phone, but my electrical knowledge on AC is pretty limited. They said test the two main wires coming into the rotary switch (220, 110 and off) and there is nothing. I tested the pair of blue and white wires coming into the AVR, and it showed 3.2 volts. I measured the resistance across the main Black and Red wires, and it showed close to 0. They then gave me a verbal list of tests at the back of the generator...well, after a recent hip replacement, taking the covers and exhaust off is quite a mission. I have asked them to email me a list of tests, as trying to remember them is more than my brain can manage, but they have not replied. I looked around on the net, and watched  a couple of videos, but they are even more confusing. Before taking the exhaust apart, does anyone have ideas about further tests on the accessible parts of the unit? A simple description of what I should read against what I am reading would help enormously!

Thanks in advance

Mike,

 off grid
Osborne Bay
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Iain
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« Reply #1 on: December 14, 2017, 11:44:37 AM »

Hi
Just looked at a Hyundai 6 kw manual. Not sure if yours is similar.

Mentions alternator brushes, possibly easy to check.
Bad connections in plug sockets.
Or AVR
What does your manual say?

Iain


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Mike McMillan
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« Reply #2 on: December 14, 2017, 12:00:48 PM »

Hi Iian,

Yes, this is the one, but it's a bit of a mission to get at the back of the generator, I wanted to make sure that here was nothing I hadn't missed on the easy to get at bits. Plus, once the exhaust is off, I can't run it. Will have a poke around with the multi meter later and see if there is any sign of anything anywhere..

Mike
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Off grid; 4KWH install charging Rolls 24v 1000 A.H. batteries with 3 Tristar controllers. 3KW Victron Inverter with FIT meter on output. Relay driver automatically opens circuits as battery charges. 6 x 15 experimental solar collectors feeding 250 L. tank.  Angus wood gasification boiler.
oliver90owner
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« Reply #3 on: December 14, 2017, 04:02:23 PM »

Seven duff generstors?  That is surprising, unless they were cheap rejects from elsewhere!

One question that may be pertinent: Are these generators ever turned off while still connected to a load?  Some may lose their residual magnetism and fail to excite on restart.
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biff
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An unpaid Navitron volunteer who lives off-grid.


« Reply #4 on: December 14, 2017, 04:32:15 PM »

Hi Mike,
         Could you post a pic of the dash. (Control panel) Please,
                                
    I had one where a wire broke off the main feed under the plastic insulator (I found it by chance)
  If the problem is not up at the dash then like you say,,the exhaust will have to come off to get into the AVR. there are dozens of different AVRs but the number and codes are clearly visible on them.
   If you decide to try and fix it,,You can get some one to lift it up on small handy platform say 28 inches off the ground, then you can sit on a chair with a cordless,,a number 10 ,, number 14,, sockets and spin off the dozen 10s amd 4 x 14s ?
   You may have to splt the exhaust to get it off, 2 no 13 ring spanners and then you are looking at the alternator..5 minutes later you have the AVR out on the bench. I sincerely hope it is the AVR because if it is not, then you might have to pull out the alternator to find 2 little rectifiers inside the housing next to the engine,,,,,,of all places.  Avrs are not expensive  from 9  to 30.00.
    
                                                           Biff
  There are loads of little No 10a ,,no 14x + screws,  so I used small plastic containers for each round of bolts and screws and fed them back in reverse order when I reassembled it. It is an hour to strip down and put things away carefully and less than an hour to screw it all back together using the cordless driver on torque.
    
« Last Edit: December 14, 2017, 05:22:52 PM by biff » Logged

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Mike McMillan
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« Reply #5 on: December 16, 2017, 04:45:29 PM »

I did reply, but it doesn't seem to have come up here, I will try gain. Hi Biff, I have two photos, one showing the AVR through the rear panel and one showing the back of the front panel. I tested the pair of blue and white wires going into the AVR and got 3.2 volts. I checked the voltage on the red and black wires going onto the selector switch, which showed nothing...Any suggestions before I have to dismantle the exhaust to access the back of the generator??

Hope this works,

Mike


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* IMG_20171216_152001.jpg (43.85 KB, 250x148 - viewed 164 times.)
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Off grid; 4KWH install charging Rolls 24v 1000 A.H. batteries with 3 Tristar controllers. 3KW Victron Inverter with FIT meter on output. Relay driver automatically opens circuits as battery charges. 6 x 15 experimental solar collectors feeding 250 L. tank.  Angus wood gasification boiler.
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