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Author Topic: Direct Drive small engine 90amp charger,  (Read 708 times)
biff
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« on: January 03, 2018, 04:35:46 PM »

Direct Drive 12v x 90amp charger,





    For some time now, I have been wanting to build a high Amp 12v charger. I have plenty of old engines and goodness knows how many old alternators. Belts and pulleys were necessary on my 120v diesel driven PMG charger because i needed to slow the rpm down to under 400rpm. This is not the case with the alternator, it can rev away happily in the 3,000 rpm bracket. So all I had to do was design a connector that could be easily worked at and which would allow air in and around the alt and engine sump.
 After giving it some though, I decided to attach the alternator to the engine shaft with the new connector, It screws on to the alternator and has a hollow bore that allows for a long stem allan key to travel up the center and allow me to lock the shaft while I tighten or loose the connector with a spanner.The other end of the connector slides up the engine shaft and the grub screws lock on to the woodruff key groove on the shaft. Once this is done. The whole lot can be hung up on a frame,,say 800mm x 400mm x 500mm high with room for a battery to sit over the wheels on the front.
    I am hoping that this will be the answer to my problem with my 2 x 100ah x 12v yousa batteries that power my 12,000 lb winch..Each and every time that i have used the winch,the batts have been slaughtered and the 10amp charger just cannot keep up with the demand from the winch. So I intend to run this small 90amp charger for the 5 minutes that it takes to raise and lower the tower. The charger is meant to be as light and as maneuverable as possible with one folding handle which will allow it to tuck in under my workbench until needed.
There is no reason why a similar designed 24v alternator could not be cobbled together . All the "Valeo" alternators up to 120amp and beyond have a similar threaded nut in the center of the pulley. It is important to look for a clockwise driven alternator,,the anticlockwise type will not work (unless you have an anti-clockwise driven engine). They are easily tested with an old interior roof light wired into the small Ign wire on the back of the alternator. The - pole on the batt is earthed to the alternator body( Sometimes you have to scratch and search for a good earth.The large positive pole on the alternator goes to the positive on the batt.
This is just a short cut wiring idea without any ignition key or anything like that. The on/off tilting interior light is the ignition light and when the alternator powers up,,the light goes out.
  I/ You,,He She or It can also fit a key with a proper small ignition light which will of course look more professional.
  Once the engine is suspended on it,s frame, the alternator can then be locked into place with accurately measured and secure stays.
The proper cables from the battery + to the alt + and from the Alt Ign Pole through the ignition light must also be correct. A low energy led light is no use for the ignition ,it needs 5watt to excite it and the interior roof light is ideal, especially if you can cut it neatly into a recess. You can easily Glam it up with all the bells and whistles but then there is more to go wrong.
  In my own case, it will sit silently for at least 6 months of the year, Yet I need it to be able to fire up and work it anytime, so it will have to be reliable. It may not even be able to work a all. The small engine with the" Valiant" name will be my first bet, it is .350cc. The one showing with the alternator already attached is the .400cc version, the shaft diameters are the same and all the mounting are the same. So luckily everything is interchangeable. My Turbine ran for over an 18 month stretch without being lowered. This past sessions of storms is unusual in that we have had more serious storms in a period of 3 months that we have had in 3 years,,Perhaps this is the future.
           I will have to order some angle iron for the frame and will post some pics in due time.
                                                 Biff
« Last Edit: January 04, 2018, 10:04:08 AM by biff » Logged

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rogeriko
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« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2018, 06:48:46 PM »

Alternators are bi-directional they will work equally either way. If you remove the automatic regulator circuit and replace it with a 50 ohm wirewound resistor you can control the charging current yourself, and also charge 24v batteries with a 12v alternator as long as you do not put more than 12v at about 1 amp into the rotor winding. Good job Biff a very handy charger to have around.

Picture of my version using a bus alternator.


* 28vgensml.jpg (69.59 KB, 819x614 - viewed 216 times.)
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Scruff
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« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2018, 09:41:52 PM »

Nice work Gents.

Alternators are bi-directional they will work equally either way.

True but the pulley threads don't.
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camillitech
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« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2018, 10:29:35 PM »

Nice work Gents.

Alternators are bi-directional they will work equally either way.

True but the pulley threads don't.

Or the fan  Grin though for the amount of time Biff will be using it I hardly think it will be an issue.
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« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2018, 11:15:16 PM »

Rogeriko's fan doesn't care. Flat blades no scoop. Omni-directional.
Biffer's will. Alternators kinda rely on a bittov draft in an engine bay but you might get a away with it. Otherwise T-stat the field windings.
Most alternators do very little work. You load them up they can well get grumpy.
If it's an issue another option is they can power more fans electrically or mechanically.
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biff
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« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2018, 11:26:28 AM »

Thanks for the info Roger,
                  Your bus alternator would have been an excellent machine,,robust and built to last.
  Sometimes we put a load of effort into designing and building machines and it takes ages before you can safely justify the expense and effort. It is really all about design and simplicity + ease of access for repair or servicing. And yet I have built a 120 charger that I don,t really want to be using at all. I would prefer not to take the bank down below 124vdc. Then I think back on the times that i had to use our 3 or 5kw Generators for 6+ hour stretches and the fuel bill does not be long adding up. A 120v charger was not an option so all we could do was either use the geni or sit tight till the sun shone or the wind blew. Our 120v PMG charger changed all that and we get the benefit of a good 6 hours energy for 100minutes of charge + we boost the cells as well. So the fuel bill drops drastically.
   It seems a lot of trouble to go to to build a 12 volt charger that will only be used once in a blue moon but running about waiting for the batts to fill up again and the green light to come on is not the way to go. My previous winch was also a 12,000lb one but was nothing like as sore on batts as this new one. That said, the new one is extremely powerful and safe with good braking power. So building the charger is something that has to be done to have any kind of decent raising action while keeping the batteries from getting hammered to destruction. I will also be able to use it to charge large batteries as well.
 Keeping the Alternator and the engine cool is something that I was aware of. I have a 100mm circular plate that is designed to slide over the coupling and be welded on to it. The idea is to protect the alternator from any drips from above. (that kind of thing does happen). It will not take much to install a decent 12v fan but will make all the difference to cooling the machine if directed properly.
 It is an interesting project and should get a good result.
                                             Biff
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« Reply #6 on: January 07, 2018, 04:04:24 PM »




                                                         Biff
« Last Edit: January 07, 2018, 04:06:17 PM by biff » Logged

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Tinbum
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« Reply #7 on: January 07, 2018, 05:41:26 PM »

Ready made one!- gas or petrol powered, not as much fun though Grin






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« Reply #8 on: January 07, 2018, 07:46:18 PM »

That looks handy Tinbum.
                  But you are right. I am getting a load of fun from this project and it might turn out to be quite good and justify the effort and expense.
        Biff.
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« Reply #9 on: January 07, 2018, 09:57:09 PM »

Be a lot less effort if you got yer Lidl welder going Biff and stopped feckin about with nuts and bolts  Grin
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« Reply #10 on: January 07, 2018, 11:30:56 PM »

Aye Paul, T,is true,
              But perhaps this is the Mecano set that I never had. There is also the advantage where I can change things about until I get the desired results and then the welder will go into action.. Grin
                 Biff
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« Reply #11 on: January 13, 2018, 05:31:17 PM »



    It is almost ready for testing for vibration. There is no point in going any farther if it does nothing but try and shake itself apart,, so a battery , a little wiring, ,,a light a little petrol and a few pulls,, should answer any questions.The alternator sits on adjustable rack which can take much bigger alternators, however.the engine might not be able to drive the present 90amp Valeo. wackoold.
  I aimed for lightness and practicality but already the thing is getting heavy. The alternator has to be secured properly, They can burst open and that is something that need to be allowed for. I have a pair of wheels for it and a 100ah battery, H,mmmmmmm. I am looking forward to wiring it up properly.
   I  drill and bolt everything together and that way, I can dismantle and adjust. If it is a success, I will have the joints welded and  90% of the bolts removed. If it turns out to be a new kind of whacker plate, then i can dismantle the lot and hide it in a box under my bench, Grin
                                                                                               Biff
     
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