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Author Topic: Remote switching  (Read 1922 times)
Countrypaul
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« on: October 23, 2018, 06:57:42 PM »

Not sure whether I have this in the right place or not, however please move it if there is a better section.

The pump for our UFH is located some distance from the manifold and wiring centre with a floor and two walls between. If the pump was located close by then the wiring centre could easily control the pump (on/off). I am looking to see if there is a simple solution such as a wireless switch that can be used to control the remote pump from the wiring centre. Ideally (imho) there would be a transmitter that would link to the wiring centre and relay the on/off commands to the remote receiver that woud switch the pump on/off.  I can find plenty of remote switches but all seem to be for manual operation, and I can't believe this hasn't been produced already. Has anyone seen such a thing, can you give a link?

I'm trying to avoid the significant disruption that would be caused by putting in a cable now (which would have been trivial had we done it before the ceilings, wall etc were all plastered.
« Last Edit: October 23, 2018, 06:59:21 PM by Countrypaul » Logged
TT
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« Reply #1 on: October 23, 2018, 08:30:49 PM »

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMFSTWIFI.html

Would this be an option?
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rogeriko
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« Reply #2 on: October 23, 2018, 09:31:07 PM »

I have used these before.   https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Heating_Index/EasySwitch_HVAC/index.html
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Countrypaul
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« Reply #3 on: October 23, 2018, 11:13:09 PM »


I don't think that solves the the problem, it appears to be similar to many other devices that really gives control over to a user rather than taking a signal from a mains supply and effectively duplcating that.

That appears to be controlled via a mobile phone/pad etc and incorporate a timeswitch neither of which is relevant.  I actually want something that I think is much simpler: When the wiring centre turns on the power to the "pump" and want a transmitter to repalce the pump and have it send to a receiver to turn on the actual pump. Both locations have mains power so no batteries involved and no remote fob or mobile involved.
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Countrypaul
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« Reply #4 on: October 23, 2018, 11:23:09 PM »

I have used these before.   https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Heating_Index/EasySwitch_HVAC/index.html

Thanks for that link Roger.
That looks like it would work, but seems very much overkill. I haven't read all the documentation yet, but I only need a single channel and single switch, since it will be indoors nice and dry the weather proofing and key fobs are superflous to my application. Looks like it would be well north of 100 for an installation which seems very expensive compared with the majority of remote switches available if only they didn't reply on fobs/mobiles though.
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Countrypaul
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« Reply #5 on: October 23, 2018, 11:30:42 PM »

Thanks to TT and Roger, I am now finding things much closer to what I thought must exist already.

This looks more along the lines of what I had in mind, though still overkill: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/remote-control-systems-kits/8607246/

I could do with a simpler/cheaper version  lower power and no need to be ip65.
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rogeriko
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« Reply #6 on: October 24, 2018, 12:51:06 AM »

I have used these before.   https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Heating_Index/EasySwitch_HVAC/index.html

Thanks for that link Roger.
That looks like it would work, but seems very much overkill. I haven't read all the documentation yet, but I only need a single channel and single switch, since it will be indoors nice and dry the weather proofing and key fobs are superflous to my application. Looks like it would be well north of 100 for an installation which seems very expensive compared with the majority of remote switches available if only they didn't reply on fobs/mobiles though.

It works because it has 2 wires that you connect to the boiler/call for heat terminals on your manifold controller. You just buy one transmitter and one receiver.
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eabadger
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« Reply #7 on: October 24, 2018, 10:09:14 AM »

i use dio by chacon, i have them on my shutters and some lights, i have ordered the heating module, we have a homebox which talks to them all and then you can control by phone app or pc, each device can have up to 6 remotes or homebox, works for us.
https://getdio.com/en/
prices are cheaper in the diy shops for some odd reason

steve
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1600w PV main array at 24v, excide 2v 1000a forklift cells now x 2, 320w PV secondary array at 12v. Enfield 1944 ex RAF 5.6kw diesel genset (now in pieces, big ends gone), Petter AC1 28v diesel charging set at 2.8kw.
1kw wind turbine.
26kw wood stove back boiler to underfloor heating and dhw
Countrypaul
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« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2018, 12:45:22 PM »

i use dio by chacon, i have them on my shutters and some lights, i have ordered the heating module, we have a homebox which talks to them all and then you can control by phone app or pc, each device can have up to 6 remotes or homebox, works for us.
https://getdio.com/en/
prices are cheaper in the diy shops for some odd reason

steve

Steve,

I can't see a transmitter that can connect to where a pump woud normally be connected to trigger a receiver to turn on the remote pump. Maybe I'm missing something, but all the solutions appear to be based on a usr controlling things, or a thermostat  can you point me in the right direction?  If you look at the solution from Roger or the Mainslink one i found they allow a transmitter to be fitted to where the pump supply is and a receiver at the pump end  no batteries, no user interference etc.

Paul
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eabadger
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« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2018, 01:12:02 PM »

you can use the simple "switch" it would need to be operated by a relay i agree yes a battery but last years, https://getdio.com/en/smart-lights/25-wireless-wall-switch-micromodule-5411478547006.html.
or this unit (https://getdio.com/en/smart-heating/7-smart-heater-module-868-5411478001324.html) is a heating statue unit that see's on off state, not used yet as on way, but i assume it sees the mains status.
with the homebox you can set up scenarios so when state is on remote unit closes contact on remote device or link the radio output of the above directly to https://getdio.com/en/smart-lights/111-built-in-samrt-light-module.html.

since first using these i have shown to others who so impressed have bought them, there is also on the internet a person who wrote their own software to operate them, we have one switch at back door that when pressed closes all the shutters for going out.

i was not intending to diss others suggestions, just saying which remote switching things i use, which may be of use to others.

steve
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1600w PV main array at 24v, excide 2v 1000a forklift cells now x 2, 320w PV secondary array at 12v. Enfield 1944 ex RAF 5.6kw diesel genset (now in pieces, big ends gone), Petter AC1 28v diesel charging set at 2.8kw.
1kw wind turbine.
26kw wood stove back boiler to underfloor heating and dhw
Countrypaul
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« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2018, 05:45:58 PM »

Steve

Your comment about a relay set me thinking. Whilst I do not have any T&E between the 2 locations I do have some cat6. I suppose I could have the wiring centre simply turn on a small  say 5 or 12v transformer and use a ssr at the pump end to turn on the pump probably much simpler, and cheaper than the wireless solutions. See any problems (other than the CAT6 goes into a comms cabinet!)?

Paul
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Pat_
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« Reply #11 on: October 24, 2018, 06:26:49 PM »

Sounds good - though you need dc - that may be what you meant but transformer always says ac to me.
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eabadger
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« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2018, 06:46:47 PM »

i dont like cat6 bad memories of putting in 47km at manchester airport, loads of losses as hard/impossible to pull in.

anyway POE uses the unused  pairs so you could use that, simplest is just drive a relay solid state or not.
you could use a POE injector to save messing

steve
« Last Edit: October 24, 2018, 06:49:03 PM by eabadger » Logged

1600w PV main array at 24v, excide 2v 1000a forklift cells now x 2, 320w PV secondary array at 12v. Enfield 1944 ex RAF 5.6kw diesel genset (now in pieces, big ends gone), Petter AC1 28v diesel charging set at 2.8kw.
1kw wind turbine.
26kw wood stove back boiler to underfloor heating and dhw
Countrypaul
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« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2018, 07:42:35 PM »

i dont like cat6 bad memories of putting in 47km at manchester airport, loads of losses as hard/impossible to pull in.

anyway POE uses the unused  pairs so you could use that, simplest is just drive a relay solid state or not.
you could use a POE injector to save messing

steve

I had a set of offices cabled in CAT6 a couple of years back, and even though the installers seemed to know what they were doing, about 10% of them failed the testing, even after reterminating and loosening the cabes around all the bends etc. we eventually settled on leaving the 10% as failures and not paying for them, though they worked fine for fast ethernet anyway.
I only put in around 600m, but them it is only a 225m2 dormer bungalow. So far not found any issues, but then I have only crudely tested the various cables (it would have helped if the identifying labels had not been removed!). Using a POE injector sounds like a great idea, think I have a couple lying around and will avoid having to reterminate anything.

If you don't like cat6 what do you think of CAT7?
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eabadger
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« Reply #14 on: October 25, 2018, 05:53:29 PM »

never tried cat7, after the fiasco with cat6 we now only do cat5e, the issue is with 6 that it should not be pulled in to ducts or tray, just laid in, which is pretty impossible on an old site.

using injector to drive relay at other end seems best.

steve
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1600w PV main array at 24v, excide 2v 1000a forklift cells now x 2, 320w PV secondary array at 12v. Enfield 1944 ex RAF 5.6kw diesel genset (now in pieces, big ends gone), Petter AC1 28v diesel charging set at 2.8kw.
1kw wind turbine.
26kw wood stove back boiler to underfloor heating and dhw
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