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Author Topic: Rainwater pump is calling for mains only  (Read 3197 times)
chris wills
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« Reply #15 on: February 17, 2019, 08:49:34 PM »

In its default mode with the switch down it is set in automatic, this is using the floatation valve.
When you manually push it up it forces the system to get main water and not rain water unfortunately.
I did try as you said linking and then pushing the lever up, but of course I am telling it to get mains.

I don't have a wiring diagram, could try and get one. How do I test it with a meter?
Any ideas where to buy a motorised bit or valve unit? Maybe i just need to clean it or something else


* fullsizeoutput_99b.jpeg (136.32 KB, 720x720 - viewed 255 times.)
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ecogeorge
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« Reply #16 on: February 17, 2019, 09:51:38 PM »

Valve spec here ...........
http://www.ambient-instal.ro/en/3-way-threaded-spring-return/

Spare actuator here .........

https://www.intellisys.it/sf25-spare-part.html
BUT reluctant to make you spend  money where it is not proved .........

Getting out of my depth here , but would love to help fault find with a meter ........... local friendly sparky ??
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knighty
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« Reply #17 on: February 17, 2019, 09:53:22 PM »

is it just for your toilets etc.?

if you've never run out before... I'd just bypass the valve so it's always rain water... remove the point of failure

or put a manual valve on it so you can always switch to mains if you need to
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chris wills
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« Reply #18 on: February 19, 2019, 08:41:34 PM »

This may be a good idea actually at least to try and see if its not the pump.
Can you show me how to do this please and which kind of switch to use?
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knighty
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« Reply #19 on: February 20, 2019, 09:29:10 AM »

I meant remove the valve and connect the rain water supply straight into the pump, disconnecting the mains water supply

I've looked but can't see a decent looking 3 way manual valve

if you want the option to change between mains and rainwater... you could swap the valve out for a T piece and put a manual valve on each input?
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chris wills
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« Reply #20 on: February 20, 2019, 02:16:38 PM »

Thanks, I will give it a go at the weekend, at least this will confirm that the pump is OK and it is the fault of the valve or electrics of the switch.
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ecogeorge
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« Reply #21 on: February 20, 2019, 08:19:50 PM »

Crazy thought that doesn't solve anything -swop mains and rainwater pipes (if possible) -short term answer but will use rainwater only .
George.
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chris wills
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« Reply #22 on: February 21, 2019, 01:07:03 PM »

Maybe I could try this too, good thought, will have to check the fittings at the weekend. Hopefully I will find something wrong with the 3 way as I dissassemble it and get that Eureka moment!
If you could give me a step by step electrical testing method that would be good.
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Iain
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« Reply #23 on: February 21, 2019, 03:09:37 PM »

Hi
If the pipes are fairly secure just turn the 3 way valve around. just reverse the "A" "B" sides. The nuts and olives will stay on the pipes, just undo and spin the valve 180 degrees.
5 minute job and easy to reverse.

Iain
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1.98kWp PV (11 x Sharp 180 and SB 2.5)
20 x 65mm Thermal and 180ltr unvented
Powervault 4Kw - G200 Lithium-Ion (LiFePO4)
9000ltr rainwater storage   Plymouth
chris wills
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« Reply #24 on: February 21, 2019, 04:07:54 PM »

This is an image and description of the pump setup, can you clarify your idea please?



* rain.JPG (98.68 KB, 994x668 - viewed 144 times.)
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paul149
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« Reply #25 on: February 21, 2019, 04:52:38 PM »

Gotta say " I wonder where the physical Air break is between the rain water supply and the Town main and any obligatiary NR valves?"
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3.5 kWp (14 x Sanyo H250E01 + SB3000TL) 225' (SW) at 35' Pitch Lat 51.30' (Bristol) Installed cost 2.63/Wp (Nov 2011) now with solarimmersion and 250L unvented dhw (Almost Zero gas input for DHW from Apr to mid Sep)
Iain
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« Reply #26 on: February 21, 2019, 05:01:38 PM »

Hi

Quote
If the pipes are fairly secure just turn the 3 way valve around. just reverse the "A" "B" sides. The nuts and olives will stay on the pipes, just undo and spin the valve 180 degrees.
5 minute job and easy to reverse.


Quote
can you clarify your idea please?

No sorry won't work on yours. most 3 way valves have the 2 similar pipes opposite so the valve just reverses.
Won't work easily on yours.


Quote
Gotta say " I wonder where the physical Air break is between the rain water supply and the Town main and any obligatiary NR valves?"

Got to agree, there should be an air break between the 2 supplies.

Iain
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1.98kWp PV (11 x Sharp 180 and SB 2.5)
20 x 65mm Thermal and 180ltr unvented
Powervault 4Kw - G200 Lithium-Ion (LiFePO4)
9000ltr rainwater storage   Plymouth
ecogeorge
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« Reply #27 on: February 21, 2019, 10:27:01 PM »

Gotta say " I wonder where the physical Air break is between the rain water supply and the Town main and any obligatiary NR valves?"

*
I too thought that but didn't want to confuse the situation........ Sad
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Iain
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« Reply #28 on: February 22, 2019, 06:05:25 AM »

Hi


Gotta say " I wonder where the physical Air break is between the rain water supply and the Town main and any obligatiary NR valves?"


Just been thinking again, Seems strange to have mains pressure as an input to a diverter valve and pump.
I wonder if there is a header tank somewhere for the mains to fill. Probably the house colt water header tank. Then the low pressure "mains" would then feed the pump. This would then give the air break. Although ideally I think there should be a wier arrangement incorporated
Like this


Iain


* IMG_1635.PNG (67.96 KB, 1323x955 - viewed 108 times.)
« Last Edit: February 22, 2019, 06:41:26 AM by Iain » Logged

1.98kWp PV (11 x Sharp 180 and SB 2.5)
20 x 65mm Thermal and 180ltr unvented
Powervault 4Kw - G200 Lithium-Ion (LiFePO4)
9000ltr rainwater storage   Plymouth
chris wills
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« Reply #29 on: February 22, 2019, 08:01:20 AM »

The tank under the pump is always filled with mains water and the idea is that it switches over when the rain water runs out.
It was all installed as recommended instructions.
My issue now is the fact it pulls through only mains.
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