Mounting insulation around pipes (see pics) which way to proceed?

[MR GUS]

Sorting out the mouse invasion in the conservatory (thus the s/steel meshed vent thread) I ought to bang out some insulation against a cold point adjoining the conservatory my shower room (not allowed to use the wife's one).

It has pipework & a washing machine & sink drain point that need to be "occasionally" accessed but likely 1x every 6+ years if that, so it's got to still be get-at-able.
(see picture).

DO I slap some insulation (PIR  foil / foam / foil in-between where it can be shored up but far from perfect & some Hardiebacker outer to make it solid or another approach?


















Flooring is 80's tile laid straight to concrete, just want to try & keep a semblance of warmth in for the odd occasion I do use heat in there, & to block some creeping cold over the winter months out.

Out of view is a spotlight track which will have to be moved or simply a 30 watt led flood putting in to make sure the insulation doesn't have to taper at the top.

[TT]

Build a false wall insulate it but have access covers in place that can be screwed off.
Or proprietary access hatches at the points that need the maintenance

[MR GUS]

Its the bottom half that needs access realistically, so was thinking that just cut & adhere PIR foam with inevitable, unfortunate gaps, then use buttonfix fixtures to make it easily accessed.

Question is, am I taking "bodgit n' scarper" shortcuts or is that all that can be reasonably done considering the pipes are a very permanent fixture?

Biff & co? ..alternatives or go with that?

[TT]

I would build a frame.
Insulate frame
Sheet with plasterboard or MDF
Install access hatches or provide removable screwed access.

To me insulation board isn't a finished wall

[JohnS]

And fill the gaps between the PIR board and the pipes with Rockwool insulation.

[MR GUS]

Cheers guys!

Whilst it won't be perfection, (I have lots of same size scrap wood to use that will work as framing points) its got to be an improvement to "none"

I'm likely to have to buy some 15 mm PIR to give "something" to the jutting brickwork.

Top sheet will be my old favourite 12 mm Hardiebackerfor it's general "wet" resistance & load bearing, not looking forward to extending it out past the window frame, but otherwise it would be a job half done.

[TT]

In a conservatory I wouldn't see anything wrong with normal plasterboard
Joins taped or skimmed would be nicer than hardiebacker

[MR GUS]

 Far more moisture resistant.
 Doesn't dent like plasterboard.
 Potentially much longer lifespan.
 Good & sturdy in hands of clumsy removal in future by future occupants.
 Can be covered with plastic sheeting from the likes of  https://www.claddingwarehouse.co.uk/hygienic-pvc-wall-cladding?p=1 ..of which UPVC  conservatories are famous for.

[MR GUS]

Additional.

The "boot" that covers the drain pipe to the main sewer (which has a sink, loo, & shower hooked up to it from inside, ..the shower room) has since fitting caused a big old airlock / pressure imbalance which makes for slow draining sink ((not a problem previously)) whereas the shower drainage was always a bit of a swine due to layout. suffice to say the shower hasn't got any worse, but the sink (nearer the drain) has.

If we assume this is a butyl rubber "boot cap" how much of a hole for air (which I will need to cover with stainless steel mesh & glue down) would I typically need to open in order to let the sink resume normal operations.

What is suitable as the adhesive to the boot ?

Thanks all.