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Author Topic: Thermal Store help after plumber bad job  (Read 17634 times)
Milo
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« Reply #150 on: March 06, 2020, 06:47:39 PM »

Laddomat - every year I umm and ahhh over whether to fit one to my system. Your thread has finally made my mind up and it's a no from the Spanish judges.

I thought one would be a good idea as it may speed up the initial tank heat up.

Personally, I don't worry about stratification. I just don't think my tank 475 litres is big enough to consider it. By the time the heating pump kicks in, the solar thermal pump, the pellet boiler pump and the heat exchange pump for the dhw it's all gone to hell anyways.

I think tanks at 1000+ litres then stratification is definitely an issue that needs to be addressed and where the laddomat comes into its own. I'm sure someone who knows and has more experience will come along and tell me I'm wrong

Our fires are very similar, they are both from the hunter stable and both have 80b in their names!

You only have a set amount of energy (11kw) that can heat the water. When you were thermo siphoning the rate at which the water was flowing was much slower than with the laddomat. So the energy the fire is releasing is heating a lesser volume of water meaning it gets hotter. To the point where you had kettling issues.

With the laddomat you still have the same amount of energy but because the pump is pushing the water around much faster than the thermosiphon, you are using the same amount of energy to heat a greater volume of water. Therefore it'll be cooler than the thermosiphon.

It will hit 80c...as long as your stove is hot enough!


Arghh i think i grasp what you're saying but ive ALWAYS taken the heat temp from 1/4 from the bottom which would read 85, are you saying there were pockets near the bottom and top 85 but overall less energy or joules were in the tank before? I would understand that if that temp read lower whilst bubbling at the top but... but....

From Laddomat

Quote
Accumulator tanks work using a separation system - simple physics that hot water is lighter than cold water so the hot water stays at the top of the tank, and the cooler water at the bottom. If this process is to function as intended, the boundary between hot and cold water must be sharp. If hot water and cold water are continually mixed, the water temperature will be lower. The Laddomat system controls the flow of the water so as to maintain the difference between the water temperatures

At the same time can pockets of water bubble in a tank? Whilst reading 85 but not being uniform?

Trying to add a youtube link here doesn't seem to embed.

« Last Edit: March 06, 2020, 06:54:40 PM by Milo » Logged
daveluck_uk
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« Reply #151 on: March 06, 2020, 07:00:19 PM »

Milo I wouldn't worry about it mate. With 210 litres that sucker is going to mix. You will have no stratification!

Re hot water

Think of a saucepan on the hob.

The gas is on full bore.

You put in a cup of water.

It boils within 2 minutes.

You throw that water away.

Put the saucepan back on the hob.

The gas is still going full bore

You put in 6 cups of water.

You wait, you wait, you wait...finally after 12 mins the water boils.

Thats what you are doing with the wbs except the water moves. Either by siphon or pump.

Another analogy...light a match and Pas your finger quickly through the flame...just a bit warm ( laddomat). Now do it much slower...(siphon)

Keep passing your finger quickly through the flame....and it gets a bit warmer each time until ouch! That's what the laddomat is doing.

It's the same amount of energy but just dispersed differently.

I'm gonna go out on a limb again and say if you were reading 85c on your bottom 1/4 then the top of the tank would be high 90s. Which would make sense if you had boiling. Kettling noises normal start around 80 /85c

My tank rarely goes above 75c in the winter. Mainly because of the Ch and because anything above that is waste. ( For my system other people will disagree )

I hate to say this...but

Your gravity circuit might have been ok. You just needed to flush some heat out of the system to stop the kettling / boiling 😀

« Last Edit: March 06, 2020, 07:24:13 PM by daveluck_uk » Logged
Countrypaul
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« Reply #152 on: March 06, 2020, 07:17:34 PM »

You might want a green LED for the shower as well as a Red one, nothing worse than an indicator failure leading to disaster  Grin

Hey Paul that's a good point indeed i ordered 2 of each in the end from RS components so yeah i will stick them all on and it saves me another line of questions, in my house i am mostly

Pc support
Network support
Internet Support
Plumber
Builder
Sparky
Mechanic for friends
Spider killer - yes mostly women around me!

A reasonable car freak by nature so i have time on them also, along with the odd invention my latest being a large Leaf Vac mulcher towed from Lawn mower.

These forums ive noticed are great for linkminded people learnt alot off a few of you in here, never too old to keep learning  genuflect

Woman sees the red LEd off, goes for shower, cold, who gets it in the neck...definitely need a green for go  Grin
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Milo
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« Reply #153 on: March 10, 2020, 06:10:40 PM »

Just an update been a few mild days here and i have been outside working so not paid much attention to my poxy Laddomat.

Anyway my LED's turned up now so i am going to start adding a little dashboard to the boiler panel something like this:



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biff
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An unpaid Navitron volunteer who lives off-grid.


« Reply #154 on: March 10, 2020, 08:09:40 PM »

 genuflect extrahappy fingers crossed!
           Biff
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An unpaid Navitron volunteer,who has been living off-grid,powered by wind and solar,each year better than the last one.
todthedog
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« Reply #155 on: March 11, 2020, 06:12:39 AM »

What fun Grin
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Kidwelly South Wales
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