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Author Topic: Fridge freezer repair help  (Read 3159 times)
daveluck_uk
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« on: June 18, 2020, 10:26:21 AM »

Morning,

Our fridge / freezer is playing up.

Not getting cold.

It's not frosted up etc

I've changed the control board and we had function for a day.

All the fans and flaps work.

The compressor is HOT. All the tubes leading to / from compressor (3) are cold.

The relay on the side of the compressor clicks every now and again.

Kind of get the feeling that the pentane isn't circulating.

Help!!



Edit. I'm only getting ~100v from the external capacitor where to connects to the compressor relay


Dave

« Last Edit: June 18, 2020, 10:42:27 AM by daveluck_uk » Logged
Philip R
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« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2020, 10:39:54 AM »

Compressor failure or no gas.

The device on the compressor body you mention is a called a klixon which is basically a thermal switch. sounds like that is responding to hot compressor.

Sound like compressor is not rotating inside or has no gas to pump.

Switch it off let the compressor cool down properly and then power it up again, see what happens.

Philip R
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daveluck_uk
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« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2020, 11:04:03 AM »

This thing?



« Last Edit: June 18, 2020, 11:12:11 AM by daveluck_uk » Logged
Fintray
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« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2020, 11:10:13 AM »

That's definitely a capacitor (5uF).
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daveluck_uk
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« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2020, 12:17:52 PM »

So should the voltage on this be higher than 100v?
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Fintray
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« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2020, 12:35:41 PM »

Can't give any advice on the voltage but we had a similar problem some years ago, fridge/freezer wasn't keeping to the right temperature (too warm) and the compressor was hot to the touch and you could hear the clicking of the relay, every so often the compressor would run but not each time the stat called for it.
If I remember correctly the compressor and condenser coils were replaced, was insured at the time thankfully.
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daveluck_uk
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« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2020, 01:13:12 PM »

Lol! I could do without that!

So if the incoming feed from the klixon is 240v and the compressor is rated at 240v I would expect the output from the capacitor to be more than 100v?

But I don't know....
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Mostie
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« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2020, 01:27:42 PM »

A running compressor should have a hot discharge pipe and a cold return sometimes with some condensation on it, it may have lost its gas charge or the compressor is broken internally even though the motor part is still running.
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biff
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« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2020, 01:32:21 PM »

It is behaving like a faulty capacitor  but I would target the stat. I had a similar problem here where our T/S pump would not switch on at the correct temperature,  It proved to be the  stat. So before you pull out the capacitor you could test the Stat..
            Biff
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Philip R
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« Reply #9 on: June 18, 2020, 02:03:03 PM »

The capacitor sits in series with one of the two compressor windings. It introduces a leading phase  current and thus generates a rotating magnetic field in the stator, thus turning the compressor rotor.

Switch off the fridge at the mains.
Remove the relay or klixon assembly off the compressor body. There should be 3 pins in a triangle arrangement.
Using a test meter, check for continuity between each pin to each other. This just proves the two windings are connected. (The fact you saw 100V across the capacitor would indicate the start winding has continuity but other than that, very little. If one connection pin on the compressor is open circuit, then the compressor is u/s.
Is the compressor relay part of the connection to the compressor? If the compressor windings check out , then this, if fitted could be investigated.
Philip R.
Philip R
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daveluck_uk
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« Reply #10 on: June 18, 2020, 02:19:59 PM »

The capacitor sits in series with one of the two compressor windings. It introduces a leading phase  current and thus generates a rotating magnetic field in the stator, thus turning the compressor rotor.

Switch off the fridge at the mains.
Remove the relay or klixon assembly off the compressor body. There should be 3 pins in a triangle arrangement.
Using a test meter, check for continuity between each pin to each other. This just proves the two windings are connected. (The fact you saw 100V across the capacitor would indicate the start winding has continuity but other than that, very little. If one connection pin on the compressor is open circuit, then the compressor is u/s.
Is the compressor relay part of the connection to the compressor? If the compressor windings check out , then this, if fitted could be investigated.
Philip R.
Philip R

Ok.

So apologies for the terminology

On my meter the continuity reading says 1 on the left hand side and when the electrodes don't touch and 000 when they do touch it on the right-hand side of the display

So on the pins...it reads 048 and 020 which I'm guessing means there is continuity. So I'm assuming that's a good thing?

The relay is a little white thing that attaches to the 3 pins. I've shaken it gentle as per YouTube vids and I can't hear any rattles.

Dave

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daveluck_uk
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« Reply #11 on: June 18, 2020, 02:36:35 PM »

On the relay...

On the wire that comes from the klixon I have no continuity on any of the connections from the capacitor or from the neutral back to the incoming feed

On both connections from the capacitor I have continuity to the neutral return and both holes where the pins from the compressor go but not to the whole that is dedicated to the feed from the klixon.

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Philip R
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« Reply #12 on: June 18, 2020, 02:37:15 PM »

Depending on your test meter if on the ohms scale then the numbers 048 and 020 would be ohms. some continuity which is a good start. (1 on the range means infinity or open circuit).

That is a good start. The connection device you removed, did it look like a relay. How does it smell. ( I know strange question, first line electrical fault finding, how does it smell).

With the connections well clear of earth and not connected to compressor. With mains on, do you get 240Vac on the inputs. Check meter on volts range!!  ( I know stupid question, seen it happen.)

Philip R

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daveluck_uk
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« Reply #13 on: June 18, 2020, 02:46:33 PM »

Ok, so without the capacitor attached....

I get the same voltage at those connections as the voltage coming in


When I connect the capacitor the voltage at those connections drops to ~100v. ( But only when the klixon has kliked)

The relay doesn't smell.

Oh and note to self...don't forget to discharge the capacitor before sticking fingers into stupid little spaces.
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daveluck_uk
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« Reply #14 on: June 18, 2020, 02:47:47 PM »

Oh no wait...not connected tongue compressor. Hang on I'll do it again

So...

From the incoming feed to both connection on the capacitor 240v

From the capacitor connections to the return neutral 0v

From the holes where the thing plugs into the compressor

From the static incoming to both holes 240v
« Last Edit: June 18, 2020, 02:56:15 PM by daveluck_uk » Logged
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