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Author Topic: Fridge freezer repair help  (Read 3157 times)
Philip R
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« Reply #15 on: June 18, 2020, 06:31:50 PM »

When you have plugged all back in a turned it on at the mains, do you here any feint hum from the compressor? You mentioned it was hot earlier. I appreciate you cannot get your ear onto it. I you have a block of wood or a large screwdriver. Hold one end hard against the ear and the other on the compressor, Any humming will be heard through the tool or wood.




I trust that the image above is of a download of a typical domectic fridge connection. The only difference being the switch 2 stage capacitor connection, but otherwise similar.
At start up,, both windings will be energised, one at 240V, the other will be lower because the capacitor and winding is acting as a potential divider.
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daveluck_uk
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« Reply #16 on: June 18, 2020, 06:55:33 PM »

hello,

yes there is a very faint hum and I can feel a very soft vibration. I tried the screwdriver trick but it didn't help.

The top of the compressor gets hot fairly quickly 5 mins or so. But none of the 3 pipes warm up.

I'm just so gutted. When I oput the new board in the thing fired up and worked for a good 24 hours and then just got hot. All the fans work etc.

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biff
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« Reply #17 on: June 20, 2020, 09:30:49 AM »

Hi Dave
        Any joy?  Did you get to test the stat, ?
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daveluck_uk
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« Reply #18 on: June 20, 2020, 09:46:06 AM »

Hi Dave
        Any joy?  Did you get to test the stat, ?

Hi Biff, no joy.

Yes and no to the Stat. I traced the wiring from the freezer back to the very expensive new control board and bypassed it. So I've not actually tested it just...ignored it.

Also got my hands on a new capacitor for 3. No difference.

So the only thing now is the relay. I can't find anywhere that can supply the relay that sits on the side of the compressor. I can find a new version that has the relay, klixon and wiring terminals in a monobloc. But nobody is willing to say that it is compatible with my earlier version.

To be fair it's been in operation since 2006 so I've had my money's worth but, but, but...I quite like it and want it to stay.

I'm guessing a new compressor and finding someone to fit it will mean it has reached its EOL. Especially here out in El Campo.

Still a new machine will be significantly more efficient...anyone want to buy a brand new only used once control board?

« Last Edit: June 20, 2020, 09:50:58 AM by daveluck_uk » Logged
Philip R
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« Reply #19 on: June 20, 2020, 12:26:37 PM »

I forgot to mention a cheap replacement capacitor. ( did that for my dishwasher a few years back on it returned it back to life.
From the measurements taken, sounds like compressor winding all have continuity, but we dont know if the winding has interturn fault.
With the hum am heating up of the compressor and no heating cooling of pipes, I can only concur that the compressor has seized and gone home!

I have looked at internet for "el campo spain refridgeration repairs" in your area, is it near alicante. There do seem to be a few Expat guys doing aircon and domestic appliances. So you could try contacting them to replace unit and regas it for you. It might be cheaper to replace it. I have no idea what relative costs are betwwen UK and sunny Spain.
Philip R
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Westie
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« Reply #20 on: June 20, 2020, 03:08:16 PM »

I forgot to mention a cheap replacement capacitor. ( did that for my dishwasher a few years back on it returned it back to life.
From the measurements taken, sounds like compressor winding all have continuity, but we dont know if the winding has interturn fault.
With the hum am heating up of the compressor and no heating cooling of pipes, I can only concur that the compressor has seized and gone home!

I have looked at internet for "el campo spain refridgeration repairs" in your area, is it near alicante. There do seem to be a few Expat guys doing aircon and domestic appliances. So you could try contacting them to replace unit and regas it for you. It might be cheaper to replace it. I have no idea what relative costs are betwwen UK and sunny Spain.
Philip R

If the compressor is seized the current drawn will be substatially higher than the normal running current. Some compressors now have a stall current value on the name plate, LRA ...locked rotor amps....
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daveluck_uk
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« Reply #21 on: June 20, 2020, 03:18:15 PM »

I forgot to mention a cheap replacement capacitor. ( did that for my dishwasher a few years back on it returned it back to life.
From the measurements taken, sounds like compressor winding all have continuity, but we dont know if the winding has interturn fault.
With the hum am heating up of the compressor and no heating cooling of pipes, I can only concur that the compressor has seized and gone home!

I have looked at internet for "el campo spain refridgeration repairs" in your area, is it near alicante. There do seem to be a few Expat guys doing aircon and domestic appliances. So you could try contacting them to replace unit and regas it for you. It might be cheaper to replace it. I have no idea what relative costs are betwwen UK and sunny Spain.
Philip R

If the compressor is seized the current drawn will be substatially higher than the normal running current. Some compressors now have a stall current value on the name plate, LRA ...locked rotor amps....


Ooohhhh....I have on the plate LRA 5.4

So do I need a CT clamp type meter? I haven't got one of them... But I do have a cheapy owl meter that measures watts. Can I use the amps = watts / volts?

So meter has 10ADC socket would that work? Or is that only DC?

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daveluck_uk
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« Reply #22 on: June 20, 2020, 03:27:26 PM »

Hmmmmm.....

Just plugged it and the bigger has started up!

I mean the compressor has fired up!!

The only thing I've done is I stripped the relay that attaches tongue compressor and the capacitor. Mainly because I wanted to see what was in there to see ifmi could find an equivalent.

Doesn't look like what I would call a relay. It has a metal wheel which is squeezed between the 4 contact points although only 3 are used.

The contacts are 2 for the capacitor and 1 for the neutral. The live looks like it has its own pin on the compressor and doesn't form part of the relay.

Anyways while I had it uncovered to see the internal gubbins I had a good like around, couldn't work out how it switch and put it back together.  This is the first time I've fired it up since then.

So would a faulty relay mean the motor would not spin and get all hot and bothered similar to a locked rotor?




« Last Edit: June 20, 2020, 03:40:54 PM by daveluck_uk » Logged
Countrypaul
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« Reply #23 on: June 20, 2020, 03:48:47 PM »

Any part nos. on it?
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daveluck_uk
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« Reply #24 on: June 20, 2020, 03:49:08 PM »

And it's stopped again.

Guessing it cut out first time because of the compressor temp (10 mins)

Now I can hear lots of clicking from the relay and klixon but no compressor start up.

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daveluck_uk
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« Reply #25 on: June 20, 2020, 04:06:27 PM »

Any part nos. on it?

No nothing obvious but looks like this but white

https://www.amazon.in/Whirlpool-2262185-Start-Relay-Refrigerator/dp/B004XLEAG2

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Stig
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« Reply #26 on: June 20, 2020, 04:09:30 PM »

..

So would a faulty relay mean the motor would not spin and get all hot and bothered similar to a locked rotor?


If the relay switches in a capacitor to the other winding of the rotor for start-up then that might be it.
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biff
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« Reply #27 on: June 20, 2020, 05:17:24 PM »

The relay don't work till the stat says so.
  They stick   the relay sticks , soapy bubble....
     Biff
  I am not always right, I could be wrong.I was wrong once before,
« Last Edit: June 20, 2020, 06:19:17 PM by biff » Logged

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Westie
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« Reply #28 on: June 20, 2020, 06:29:08 PM »

Hmmmmm.....

Just plugged it and the bigger has started up!

I mean the compressor has fired up!!

The only thing I've done is I stripped the relay that attaches tongue compressor and the capacitor. Mainly because I wanted to see what was in there to see ifmi could find an equivalent.

Doesn't look like what I would call a relay. It has a metal wheel which is squeezed between the 4 contact points although only 3 are used.

The contacts are 2 for the capacitor and 1 for the neutral. The live looks like it has its own pin on the compressor and doesn't form part of the relay.

Anyways while I had it uncovered to see the internal gubbins I had a good like around, couldn't work out how it switch and put it back together.  This is the first time I've fired it up since then.

So would a faulty relay mean the motor would not spin and get all hot and bothered similar to a locked rotor?



If you have connection issues that open circuited the starting winding but the running winding was energised then the rotor wouldn't spin (no rotating mag field) the running winding would then pull a high current (as there's no back emf) and get hot.   BTW most multimeters have a 10A AC/DC range ?  

BTW this is a common failure mode which is why many compressors have a thermal cutout device.


« Last Edit: June 20, 2020, 06:31:50 PM by Westie » Logged

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Stig
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« Reply #29 on: June 21, 2020, 08:21:58 AM »

Ooh, how about a lawnmower-style pull start?   hysteria


Sorry, not helping.   Embarrassed
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