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Author Topic: Solderless copper joining  (Read 2746 times)
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« on: December 07, 2008, 02:50:02 PM »

Hi has anybody used this stuff the title speaks for it self the web address is watch the video
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« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2008, 07:44:08 PM »

At about 60p (22mm pipe and small tube) to 17p (for 15mm and large bottle) - all assuming listed price is ex-VAT and no delivery cost, it is a lot more expensive than a solder joint.

It is not welded, only glued together. 120oC max temp.

It would not be good near a stagnating vacuum solar panel.

There is no shelf life quoted anywhere in the FAQ. Either for 'use by' date or for how long it lasts once opened.

I might use it for places that are challenging for positional or fire risk.

You cannot solder near to it in the future, without taking appropriate precautions.

Overall, I will try to avoid it.  Good idea maybe, but not for me.  Too many unanswered questions and too many limitations at this point in time.

Regards, RAB
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« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2008, 08:47:23 PM »

At about 60p (22mm pipe and small tube) to 17p (for 15mm and large bottle) -

Dont forget thats per JOINT so double that per fitting (or triple for a tee) Almost the cost of a complete joint.


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« Reply #3 on: December 09, 2008, 10:21:30 AM »

If you don't want to use bare copper fittings I found solder ring fittings easy to use. Just get a few joints and practice before you solder up the real thing. I also found that if you plan ahead and make off as many joints out of situ (i.e. in a vice) with the solder ring you are heating at the top of the fitting and the pipe in the vertical you get very nice even joints.

Failing that plastic pipe and push fittings are (almost) impossible to screw up. Just make sure you don't use it too close to the heat source, cant remember the distance quoted. More expensive than copper but faster to install and less likely to leak if you are not confident with soldering. My advice is still give ring solder joints a go I'd never done it before but managed to move a boiler and plumb two bathrooms without a single leak.

"If it aint broke you can probably still fix it!"

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« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2008, 01:59:11 PM »

I've tried it for constructing a frame out of copper tube - where I didn't want the heat of soldering tempering the copper.  It stuck bits together but broke down when I stressed the frame.  With soldered joints the copper collapses before the joints fail.

Also, the video recommends rotating the joint 360 degrees to ensure a good joint.  A bit difficult to do when you've a string of radiators , boilers or bends attached !!

If you want a simple joint to replace compression and solder then go for one of the many O-ring types.  To date I've had 100% success with Hep2o

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