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Author Topic: automatic gate valve for 110mm sure pipe  (Read 11727 times)
dtl
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« Reply #15 on: April 16, 2010, 06:52:23 AM »

Billi,

Is this an actuated butterfly valve, you could confirm the closing time of the valve to minimise water hammer:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Butterfly-Valve-monitored_W0QQitemZ250614911820QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ?hash=item3a59d0134c

« Last Edit: April 16, 2010, 10:32:09 AM by dtl » Logged
billi
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« Reply #16 on: April 16, 2010, 09:29:27 AM »

Thanks knighty

 did not mean you in particular  when said
Quote
and try to understand them

So the 2 wires of the actuator   both need a power-supply  to act  and the relay is needed to switch between the two wires

So even my inverter switches to off  it just means (at the actuator) ,  that this signal from the inverter connects the other wire to power

thanks dtl for the link  will watch it

Billi
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solar_cambridge
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« Reply #17 on: April 16, 2010, 11:56:07 AM »

Is this an actuated butterfly valve, you could confirm the closing time of the valve to minimise water hammer:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Butterfly-Valve-monitored_W0QQitemZ250614911820QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ?hash=item3a59d0134c
Thats a high quality looking valve and looks like it would be several hundred to buy new.
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knighty
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« Reply #18 on: April 16, 2010, 12:58:02 PM »

So the 2 wires of the actuator   both need a power-supply  to act  and the relay is needed to switch between the two wires

So even my inverter switches to off  it just means (at the actuator) ,  that this signal from the inverter connects the other wire to power


exactly :-)



(well there's 3 wires really, a negative, and then 2 positives, one for up and one for down)
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noelsquibb
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« Reply #19 on: April 16, 2010, 10:52:38 PM »

Quote

Thanks for this one dtl.
I probably should buy it at this price, regardless of its suitability.
Cant see what material it is made from, nor how it might be mechanically joined.
Just bury everything, except the moving bits, in concrete eh ?
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mmmmm,  gravy
dhaslam
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« Reply #20 on: April 17, 2010, 01:41:35 AM »

I wonder if it would be possible to  make  a wax valve, like  the ones used for  underfloor heating.  Apply heat and it opens, remove heat and it closes.   
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dtl
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« Reply #21 on: April 17, 2010, 07:28:41 AM »

Noelsquibb,

Its a wafer type valve and it will fit in between two flanges of the correct specification (ie something like DN200 PN20 or 8" class 150) and I am pretty sure it is carbon steel. Look at the photo of my turbine and you will the see a butterfly valve sandwiched between two flanges.

Perhaps ask the vendor to confirm materials, and the exact size and class from the data plate.
In the unlikely event that it has a unneccessarily high pressure rating then the flanges could be expensive.

Generally, I would recommend crossing over from twin wall/bog pipe to steel pipe in a concrete block prior to the turbine. Then everything after the concrete block will be a mixture of 10 bar steel pipework and 10 bar hose (including this valve).....steel pipework of any magnitude generally has a minimum pressure rating of 10 bar, so it is pretty tricky to get anything lower rated than this.
The downside of steel pipework is that buying all the crossover bits you need to make all the proper connections etc can add up.

I have 9" twin wall pipe operating at 10m head (approx. 500kg force), when I open up the system the power within the system is evident from the noises and movement coming from the turbine and connecting components......it makes you flinch.
I would feel really uncomfortable standing near the turbine if everything was not held together particuarly well since is something blows it could do me a lot of harm.

If the forces in your system are less than mine and/or you can convice yourself that you can join things up safely using twinwall pipe/bog pipe screws/steel bands and concrete blocks then why not.

« Last Edit: April 17, 2010, 02:12:36 PM by dtl » Logged
noelsquibb
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« Reply #22 on: April 24, 2010, 10:42:46 PM »

Quote

would appear to have been sold  Wink

Thanks dtl
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mmmmm,  gravy
camillitech
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« Reply #23 on: April 26, 2010, 06:40:14 AM »





Paul just read your post later  sure you are right with a smaller  valve at the turbine but that means then 200 meter powercable  whistlie


Morning Billi,

might still be easier to find cheap cable and valve rather than BIG valve  Grin also stopping the flow at the top seems to be frowned upon in some circles though I can't see why and I'm considering it myself for the same reason as you, only my cable run is 470m  Undecided

Good luck, Paul
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billi
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« Reply #24 on: April 26, 2010, 08:31:10 AM »

Hi Paul

True it would have the advantage that the whole  penstock  would be filled with water , instead of now after closing the 4 " valve 180 m of Pipe is empty and has to refill again after opening

Have to think about plumbing and i think the nozzle is bigger than 1 inch

cheers Billi
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petertc
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« Reply #25 on: April 26, 2010, 09:08:15 AM »

Billi

why not look at a  sluice valve ( low pressure just about 4 bar for a 4" one ) they are used on the back of farm slurry tankers and can be controlled by hyd ram ( or you could put in a 12v liner actuator )

http://catalogue.bosta.co.uk/magazine.html do a search on sluice


You can get adaptors as well that are galv and are 108mm dia with the Sq flange on

Hope this may help
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billi
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« Reply #26 on: April 26, 2010, 02:33:13 PM »

thanks Petertc

That is another option  and slurry tankers are plenty around in my area  Grin

I have a 4 " sluice valve installed already and there some nice approaches here provided  to automate it .

So  keeps my brain fit  Grin , while thinking about all the ideas

Thanks Billi
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1.6 kw and 2.4 kw   PV array  , Outback MX 60 and FM80 charge controller  ,24 volt 1600 AH Battery ,6 Kw Victron inverter charger, 1.1 kw high head hydro turbine as a back up generator , 5 kw woodburner, 36 solar tubes with 360 l water tank, 1.6 kw  windturbine
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